I use both in my tank. Great biodiversity in my tank after 3 months dosing it. Soft corals and Tridacnas like phyto very much. You could see them expanding their polyps after dosing. I use phyto- and zooplankton for more than 3 years. I wouldn't stop it anymore. I sure hope so, I feed mon phyto weekly. Hate to think I've been wasting time all these years.
Especially if you have a reef only with no fish that you are feeding. I could take pics of almost everything I own that eats, eating pieces of brine shrimp or fish flakes. Some corals will take in anything that lands on them, but what does a coral full of symbiotic algae need with more algae? Current Tank Info: 2 50 gal tanks, sump, still BB. Frick-n-Frags Hi, I don't think it's a waste of money. It depends on the quality of the phyto. Some phyto products are useless, because the most dead phyto will not accept by the most animals.
So at first you should dose "live phyto". You could test it, if you just dose litres natural seawater from phyto enriched marine area. You see how great the corals looks day after the dosing. So my conclusion is, that we should simulate the natural things in our tank so close to nature as possible. This includes the correct lightning, the correct water parameters, the streaming and never the less the right feeding.
Most SPS need zooplankton and a lot of soft corals need phyto. The most compelling evidence showing the direct consumption of phytoplankton by stony corals as being significant is found with Goniopora and Alveopora. This is no anecdotal evidence!!! The problem, that you couldn't find more zooplankton after dosing phyto or other positive results depends on the "sometimes bad skimmer".
I switch off the skimmer hours in the night to reduce the skimming of the zooplankton. Only at this time I dose phyto. At day it makes no sense dosing phyto in my opinion. Try it at night, but without skimming in this time. This is very important to get some positive results. If you're afraid of low oxigen-level at night, you could reduce the "off-time" of the skimmer to 2 hours at night, after switching of the lightning system.
There is no danger of low oxigen-level. But you save your zooplankton, which is most active in this time. To see some positive results of dosing phyto, you should dose "live phyto", daily and over 3 months. Otherwise you see nothing. But after the 3 months dosing, you will be surprised. In combination of DSB the phyto is a real "booster" for micro organisms in your tank and all animals get profit of the growing up of zooplankton and sometimes water parameters NO3 and PO4 could be stabilized to a low level.
By the way, the recommandation of dosing phyto- and zooplankton in marine tanks or generally feeding corals could be read in a lot of essays of famous marine biologists all over the world. Bornemann, Anthony Calfo, Ronald L. Shimek, Pales Espinosa and Dr. The answer is basically "probably not". At best Phyto supports zoo populations What eats phytoplankton? In the water column, zooplankton are without question the primary consumers of phytoplankton. Zooplankton grazers vary according the area and the time of year, but include primarily ciliates, copepods, amphipods, and tintinnids.
Protozoans and some invertebrate larvae are the primary consumers of nanoplankton with copepods and amphipods consuming the larger phytoplankton size classes. Seasonal cycles with zooplankton increasing following phytoplankton blooms are well known Harvey et al , Frost However, the efficiency of zooplankton feeding on phytoplankton can be extended to encompass a diurnal cycle.
Evidence for zooplankton as influencing daily cycles of phytoplankton abundance comes from Yahel et al. Of perhaps the most interest to those keeping reef aquaria is to know what non-planktonic grazers of phytoplankton exist on coral reefs. Benthic grazers are mainly bivalves, ascidians tunicates , sponges and polychaetes. Other major consumers are gastropods, crinoids, foraminiferans and soft corals.
Because more carbon is contained in the biomass of phytoplankton than zooplankton usually by at least an order of magnitude , and the nutrients are often limited around coral reefs, phytoplankton are an obviously important food resource to many organisms. Further support for their consumption comes from a concomitant increase in the levels of phaeopigments, breakdown products of phytoplankton and substances released by zooplankton.
While some studies have indicated that some stony corals are capable of clearing phytoplankton from the water, these experiments have not been rigorous Wilkinson et al. Ingestion does not equate to digestion. The extent to which phytoplankton contribute to stony coral nutrition is unknown, but it is probably unlikely that phytoplankton are an important food source for most stony corals. Among those reported or suggested to clear or ingest phytoplankton are: Acropora, Siderastrea, Montipora, Porites, Astrangia and Tubastraea.
Other studies tend to directly refute these suggestions for all but Astrangia and Porites. More directly, Goniopora and Alveopora may have more herbivorous tendencies Peach unpublished thesis. Stony corals are generally not well adapted to the sieve or filter type feeding that characterizes the soft corals Fabricius et al.
They are, however, well suited to the capture of zooplankton prey. I am sure that future studies will examine potential roles of phytoplanktivory in the Scleractinia in more detail. However, I think it safe to assume that the number of stony corals that depend on phytoplankton as a food source will be minimal, or that the relative contribution of phytoplankton to their energy needs will be slight. This does not strengthen your argument, nor isolate the phyto as the sole cause of health sandbed: phyto does not naturally occur in a place with no waterflow, no light and no oxygen, or in other words, where the bulk of your sandbed life does its thing.
I always say average, not special species or culture deals. Those sorts of things. The last one is probably the least probable simple because I don't think only a part of the coral would die. The flow issue I'm also hesitant just because the places where I see the problems really do have different flow patterns, it might be something at night nibbling at it, and the fact it's occuring on the acropora only species on one side of the tank really worries me.
If you have algae in your tank, esp. Valonia, and corraline I don't know if the cleanup crew would be at fault. Unless there is some sort of overpopulation. Take a few days off work and stare into the tank, I'm sure you'll figgure out who's the culprit. Raddogz Guest. The easy approach would be to do a light dip and blast with a turkey baster. If relatively opaque flatworms come off then you know you have AEFW Hairy acros like millies, or noblis are generally affected first or anything that is smooth branched.
Valida or any tri-colored acros also tend to get hit first - smooth skin makes it easier for them to munch and lay eggs on. Salinity swings can cause tissue recession as well. Could be almost any of the issues you listed. A close look at flow in the tank would tell you if that can be ruled out.
The only way, IMO, that you could get the described effect from a flow issue would be if your tank is stratified horizontally in that area. I'd definitely do a dip on the most affected coral. They're quite a bit larger than the other flatworms.
GreshamH Guest. Eileen, none of the eggs I found where in the crotch of the acro They all were un the underside of branches and around the base, but none in the crotch. That's how I found them on a humilus and deep water acro - yegh Well the problem with dipping is most of the affected corals are all encrusted onto the rock. One of them that was still attached to a plug, I did the dip, squirted, inspected, looked at residue in container, and didn't see anything resembling a flatworm, so I'm still on the lookout.
You found them on two acros and came to the conclusion that they "tend" to lay their eggs in that spot over others? Only two? I have very little knowledge of their life habits, nor does anyone else really for that matter. And I know what they look like! I also know what they can do. I suspect I had mine for a lot longer then I could have ever guessed back then. After talking to numerous people on this, I think that many people have these and have had these for years never noticing them.
I had one acro that I noticed one or two marks on like nearly a year before I caught them on the same colony. It never looked worse for the ware. It grew, had strong color and good P. It wasn't until I saw a fairly fresh LARGE patch of bite marks right after seeing them in some one elses tank that I caught on and pulled the colony.
I allowed it to dry for a short period then BAM, there must have been a hundred on that one colony. I then pulled everything but two millis that lived on a rack away from everything else that was suspended into the tank and had no common surfaces. They also had the return blasting over them so not much in terms on tanks critters had much of a chance to get to these. I gambled and kept an eye on them. To this day they look perfect. Zero bite marks, no dead patches, great color, etc.
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